Frankenstein F7a+ (+)
Subject: Sport climbing.
Route: Frankenstein (UKC), F7a+ (and the rest).
- 2006: Onsight lead, sorted.
- 2007: Two falls... Curses!
Yeah, well. F7a+ my arse.
To be honest, this is my kind of route: bit fierce for the grade, good variety of holds, plenty for the grey cells to think about.
Allow me to take you on a little tour of the mentality...
Nice and low first bolt: a few crimps; clip. Then: more crimps; clip. Reasonable rest by the second bolt; high heel or toe; left-hand press off a mediocre crimp; right-hand sidepull; left-hand sidepull; cross-through right-hand; twist & push back on the left-hand sidepull; left-hand block pinch; clip; don't stop; right-hand undercut; left-hand high sidepull; right-hand flatty; clip...
Of course, the biggest hold is probably a few square-inches which is plenty seeing as the angle is only a bit off vertical; the right side of vertical. The crux sequence is fun to work out and cool to do.
All this before the reach for the chain at the top, off a flat side pull and either a poor crimp or an even poorer mono; you takes yer pick, focus on the chain, and hope you're not too pumped to hold the damn thing...
